【Sapporo】“Auberge” in Jozankei Onsen
更新日：3月30日
The other day, I took a little trip — part work, part curiosity — to visit a new auberge in Jozankei.
Its name caught my eye right away:
翠巌離れ 松直棘曲*
Suigan Hanare *
“How do you even read that?” I wondered.
“Matsu-hana-okuibara-ha-magare-ri”? Hmm…
Ah — it’s actually ‘Matsu wa naoku, ibara wa magareri.’
Once I broke it down, it stuck easily.
It’s a Zen saying meaning “Just as the pine grows straight and the briar grows crooked, each should live true to their own nature.”
In other words, embracing individuality and living in harmony with who you are.
A perfect sentiment for a retreat like this.
Opened just this past October 7th by Daiichi Hotel Group, a name well-known for creating imaginative spaces around Jozankei, this auberge blends design, cuisine, and nature with a quiet sense of balance.
1．Design: The Anatomy of “Japanese-Modern”
The inn has only seven guest rooms, each arranged on a split-level floor and equipped with a private onsen. The interiors follow a calm palette of gray and beige — the timeless formula for Japanese-modern (Called by "Wa-Modern").
Behind the bed, a plastered accent wall adds texture, while the rest features Juraku-style wallpaper, which mimics the look of traditional earthen walls. It gives the room that understated Japanese elegance — without the high maintenance real plaster requires.
This type of wall finish is increasingly popular in new homes that want a warm, authentic touch.
I was also impressed by the smart use of sliding-door storage — a small but clever detail that saves space and keeps the room uncluttered.
Classic Japanese practicality at its best.
From the step-down living area, a wide window opens to the surrounding landscape.
Sitting on the sofa, watching snowflakes fall while doing a bit of work — now that’s my idea of a perfect workation.
Within a few hours, the world outside turned white, and time seemed to slow to a peaceful hush.
2．Dining – Full Course Meal
Dinner was a 14-course masterpiece featuring herbs and fresh seasonal ingredients. Each dish was beautifully presented — a delight for both the eyes and the palate.
To be honest, it was a lot of food; I couldn’t quite finish everything (sorry, chef!).Two or three fewer dishes would’ve been just right for me.
Drinks were self-serve — take what you like, when you like. Beer, wine, highballs, sake, even handmade fruit liqueurs — all beautifully displayed and impossible to resist. No dress code, no fuss — just good food and a relaxed atmosphere.
The ONSEN – A Surprising Design Flaw!?
Now for the part I didn’t expect.
Each room’s onsen looks wonderful… but if you fill the tub too much, the washroom floods.
Yes, really.
And since there’s no way for guests to drain the tub themselves, you have to call staff every time you want to adjust the water or temperature.
It means you can’t quite enjoy that true “anytime, as long as you like” onsen freedom.
(Most private onsens keep a gentle, continuous flow of water — always ready, always warm.)
It’s hard not to see this as a design oversight. Even the most beautiful room can’t feel perfect if the function doesn’t match the form. For hot spring lovers, this might be a little disappointing — hopefully something that gets fixed soon.
Still, there were plenty of plush towels and robes (big plus!), and the Dyson hairdryer was a nice touch.
One more thing — the bathroom lighting. There’s only one downlight above the sink, so it casts shadows on your face when applying makeup.
If you’re staying here, I recommend bringing a small mirror and doing your makeup in the brighter living area.
Final Thoughts
“Matsu wa naoku, ibara wa magareri” — the pine grows straight, the briar grows crooked. Each beautiful in its own way. This inn reflects that spirit perfectly: refined yet natural, elegant yet humble. A little imperfect perhaps, but that’s part of its charm — just like nature itself.